Tips

Tips

July 19 2021

Everything You Need To Know About Stripe Payments

Unless you’re really paying attention, Stripe can almost seem like a monopoly : it’s everywhere — but not always in plain sight. The truth is, Stripe is a “full-stack payment processor,” which is a glorified way of saying that it serves as a third party payment processor and a payment gateway. What this means is that Stripe allows your business to process credit and debit cards, as well as automated clearing house (ACH) transactions, both online and offline.

Founded in 2010, Stripe now powers the transactions of some of the biggest brands out there, including Lyft, Under Armour, Blue Apron, and Pinterest. In fact, the company claims that 89% of all credit cards have been processed on a Stripe network at some point. With the ability to handle 135 currencies, it’s a common solution for companies that do business internationally.

How Does Stripe Work?

Stripe Payments is a payment processing platform. It allows you to transfer money from a customer’s bank account into your business’s account by way of a credit or debit card transaction. While Stripe can be used for all kinds of transactions, chances are you’re considering it because you’re looking for an eCommerce solution. Keep reading for a comprehensive overview of how Stripe works in an online retail setting.

Stripe Payments Tools For Online Businesses

To process online transactions you need both a payment gateway and payment processor. The gateway securely captures and transmits the customer’s credit card payment information to the processor, which then actually processes the transaction. Funds from the customer’s bank are then temporarily routed to a merchant account (in this case of a third party processor like Stripe, it’s an aggregated account — more on that later), where credit card-related fees are deducted from the sum. The payment is then routed to the merchant’s bank account. It’s actually a lot more complicated than that if you want to dive down the rabbit hole, but for our purposes, this works as a general overview.

Stripe combines gateway functionality and payment processing, making it a convenient (if not necessarily the cheapest) way to handle eCommerce.

Why Stripe?
If you are a merchant, accepting payments for products or services, you need a way for the customer to easily transfer funds from their account to your account. In the distant past, this was done by a bank giving you a merchant account. This merchant account cost the seller a specific amount of money every time a buyer made a charge, but they also charged the merchant for the luxury of even having an account.

Online payments changed the rules, in that the customer was no-longer on property and thus the old customer of showing your identification to prove that you are the name on the card was gone.

Company’s like PayPal and Stripe, redefined payment process by building a system where a merchant can integrate the payment process, into forms and then they, Stripe/PayPal, verify the information based on online based information. A digital ID of sorts.

Is Stripe Safe For Customers?

Stripe has a reputation for taking security very seriously, and it appears to be well-earned. Stripe is a certified PCI Service Provider Level 1, which means it meets the most stringent security standards in the industry.

Stripe uses HTTPS for all services using TLS(SSL), even for their public website and dashboard. Credit card numbers are encrypted, with decryption keys stored on separate machines.

That said, nobody’s perfect. Stripe offers an incentive program to anyone who identifies a qualifying security-related bug and reports it to Stripe’s security team. Major bugs earn a minimum $500-reward. Lesser vulnerabilities may be rewarded a minimum of $100.

If you’re still concerned about fraud, Stripe does offer an advanced fraud detection service called Radar. Radar will probably be overkill for most businesses, but it uses machine learning to predict the likelihood that any particular transaction is fraudulent by factoring in data from your business and information Stripe has about the card being used. Radar is free with accounts paying the standard Stripe fee, or as a $0.04/transaction add-on. You can also buy chargeback protection for a 0.04% fee per transaction.

You can also utilize standard fraud prevention tools like address verification service and CVV checks.

Stripe Prohibited Businesses: What You Can & Cannot Sell

Most payment services, whether due to security concerns, legal concerns, or moral convictions, won’t work with every industry. Stripe, it turns out, is no different. Because Stripe is a third-party processor, meaning it aggregates all of its clients into a single merchant account, it’s taking on a bit more risk than if each customer had their own merchant account. If you’re in a “problem” industry and still need to accept card payments, you may want to consider getting a merchant account from a company like Payment Cloud instead.

So first the obvious: Stripe will not do business with entities that sell illegal or products or services, no exceptions. Beyond that, Stripe’s restrictions are a little soft: you may be able to plead your case to Stripe to get them to make an exemption for you.

Stripe restricts:

Financial and professional services:
- Investment & credit services
- Money & legal services
- Virtual currency
IP Infringement, regulated, or illegal products and services
- Anything infringing on IP right
- Counterfeit goods
- Gambling
- Regulated products (tobacco, cannabis, and related products)
- Adult content & services
Unfair, predatory, or deceptive practices
- Get rich quick schemes
- Mug shot publications or pay-to-remove sites
- No-value-added-services
Products or services restricted by Stripe’s financial partners
- Aggregation of funds, factoring, payment facilitation
- Drug paraphernalia
- High-risk businesses
- Multi-level marketing
- Pseudo pharmaceuticals
- Social media activity
- Substances designed to mimic illegal drugs
- Video game/virtual world credits

They also don’t like to see Stripe used in a manner inconsistent with its intended purpose or manner prohibited by its Stripe Services Agreement.

Original article by Merchant Maverick
That article can be seen here

July 19 2021

Common Sense Tips for Buying Used Items Online

Tips

It is part of a frugal lifestyle, but buyer be warned when it comes to the online marketplaces like eBay, Craigslist or the scores of smaller websites and apps that have popped up over the last few years. Alongside the good finds, you still hear horror stories of scamming, stalking, and otherwise bad experiences.

Still, there’s something to be said about finding a great deal, especially on high-ticket items like furniture and electronics that tend to be overpriced by retailers. Here are some tips when decided to look for that deal over the super highway.

Tip #1: Make sure the sold sign is not present.
While some online sellers tend to leave the sold products online, Richard’s Collectables, does not.

Tip #2: Move fast.
Once you’ve verified that an item is still available, act quickly. With hundreds of other invisible shoppers, hesitating for even one day can mean losing your chance. Especially true in the world of estate sales.

Tip #3: Online does not equal flea market. Prices are not negotiable.
While a online=business does not have a brick and mortar building, there are still massive costs involved with selling online. Hosting, insurance, city taxes, state taxes, and paying for a developer each month are all part of the package. Those costs have to be covered before the business owner can receive a dime. Never assume that used means over-priced. This costs, while less than new, still need to cover the overall expenses. Richard Collectables prices all of it’s items according to request of the donating family and in line with between 50-60% of the cost of new.

Tip #4: Factor in shipping .
In the eagerness to find a good deal on something you need and want, it’s easy to forget about practical things like shipping. This is especially true when a breakable item and needs to be packed in such a way that assures it’s arrival to you. Shippers, like UPS and Fedex, are blind to the contents. So if you want to have extra protection, as the seller, and be willing to pay for, extra packaging. Even insurance will protect your purchase.

Tip #5: Recognize that this is used.
Yes, you can save a TON of money, finding an item that someone else has previously used. Recognize that, this means it may not be perfect. A scratch or faded color may be in-store. Perfect working, but not perfect appearance.

Tip #6: Check the return policy
Most items in the estate or used space, are going to be sold as is. Although, some small online stores will accept the items back, if you can prove that it is damaged in transport. This is going to require you to take pictures and do some going back and forth to show that the product does not match the pictures online.

July 19 2021

Pick your perfect old camera

Tips

There are three general types of film cameras: SLRs, compacts, and rangefinders. The type you should pick depends on lots of variables including your budget, shooting style, and even aesthetic preferences. If you see something you think you like, check it out on a site like Camerapedia, which offers tons of useful knowledge about old gear.

SLRs

What are they?
This is the classic form factor many people imagine when picturing an analog camera. They have interchangeable lenses in the front and a viewfinder that lets you look out through the lens and into the world with some help from a mirror inside. That’s where they get their three-letter name, which stands for single-lens reflex.

Advantages:
SLRs are typically the most durable option and, if you’ve ever used a DSLR (which stands for digital SLR), the whole experience should seem familiar. They typically offer manual controls to help you learn, and you can swap the lenses if you get really into it and want to expand your collection.

If you already have a DSLR from a company like Nikon or Pentax, your lenses might even work (a quick Google search for compatibility will confirm it). If you have a modern Canon camera, however, it’s worth noting that their newer lenses won’t work with older film models.

Disadvantages:
They’re the biggest cameras out of all the options, and some older models don’t offer much in the way of assistance when it comes to figuring out exposure, so brush up on your aperture and shutter speed knowledge.

Some models to check out:
The Pentax K1000 and the Canon AE-1 Program are both iconic film cameras that are perfect for learning. They were extremely popular, so the companies manufactured millions of them, many of which are still around.

If you want to step up to a slightly higher-grade camera, the Canon A-1, the Nikon FM2, and the Nikon F3 are also excellent choices. Expect to pay well over $100, and sometimes much more depending on condition, for one of these.

All the SLRs mentioned to this point have been manual focus, which means you have to rotate the lens yourself in order to get things sharp. There are plenty of modern autofocus SLRs out there, but they typically aren’t as affordable as their manual counterparts.

One note about old manual-focus SLRs is that the zoom lenses you sometimes see with them are terrible in terms of build and optical quality. If the camera comes with a big Vivitar, Sears, Quantaray, or another third-party lens, be prepared for soft focus and a clunky user experience. Sticking to a lens that matches the camera’s maker is your safest bet until you learn the intricacies of picking out new glass.

Compact cameras

What are they?
They look like black or silver bars of soap, but this segment of the film camera market has taken off over the past two years. They’re also called point-and-shoot cameras, because they don’t offer much in the way of manual controls.

Advantages:
If you just want to get the film look without having to learn lots about exposure and other photographic concepts, compacts are a great solution. They’re much smaller than the other types of film cameras, and they often use batteries that are cheaper and easier to find. They’re also conspicuous than a big camera, too.

Advantages:
Since most compact cameras were designed for mass audiences, many of them are terrible in terms of image quality and build. Again, they don’t offer much in the way of manual controls, which may be a negative depending on your outlook. Also, because of the way their lenses are constructed, they often have to rely on the built-in flash to get the proper amount of light in the photo. Shooting a flash in 2018 immediately draws a lot of attention. You also can’t change lenses if you get sick of the same field of view.

Some models to consider
Olympus made some excellent point-and-shoot cameras under the Stylus series, and the zoom lens versions are still pretty affordable at less than $100. There’s another version called the Stylus Epic (or the international name, the MJU II), which has an exceptionally sharp lens, and doesn’t zoom. It’s getting more difficult to find them all the time for anything below $200.

If you go thrifting, keep an eye out for pretty much anything made by Contax, Olympus Stylus compacts, or anything in the Ricoh GR family.

If you don’t want to go bargain hunting or drop hundreds of dollars, the Nikon L35AF, which you can often find at estate sales and on eBay for under $100, is an underrated camera that’s bigger than most point-and-shoots, but has a great lens attached.

Rangefinders

What are they?
The rangefinder resides somewhere between the compact and the SLR. You compose and focus using a viewfinder held up to your eye, but you don’t actually see through the lens of the camera, as you would with an SLR. The lens is coupled to the viewfinder so it knows when something is in focus. Shooting with a rangefinder is likely different than anything you’ve experienced with a digital camera, unless you’ve used something like the Fujifilm X100F. Try it before you make the leap.

Advantages:
Some rangefinders allow you to swap out your lenses, while others opt for a fixed lens system that tunes the glass for that specific camera. They’re typically smaller than SLRs, but offer more manual controls than a compact. They’re also often some of the best-looking cameras around.

Disadvantages:
The focusing process will likely take a little getting used to. The good ones are fairly expensive. Many of the older models don’t have a built-in light meter, so you’ll have to get a separate one or use a digital camera as a benchmark.

Some models to consider
The Leica M series is often considered the gold standard against which all other rangefinders are judged. Unfortunately, that means most of them cost absurd amounts of money. A Leica M6, for example (which is desirable because it was the last all-mechanical M camera before the company introduced electronic elements in the M7) typically costs more than $1,000 before you add a similarly pricy lens.

In the world of the more realistic purchases, the Canon QL17 ($25-$100) is a great option for a beginner because it has a very sharp fixed lens. It’s small and relatively easy to use as well. The Yashica Electro 35 ($40-$100) is another good, stylish option.

If you want to get the most out of each roll of film, you can opt for a half-frame rangefinder like the Olympus PEN (roughly $150). It shoots photos that are only half the size of a typical 35-millimeter picture, which means you get 72 images on a single roll that usually only holds 36. You’ll lose some image quality as a trade-off, but if you’re going for the low-fi look, it could actually be a benefit.

Making sure it works

Now that you’ve found a perfect picture machine, it’s time to inspect it and make sure everything is in working order. There’s a chance that any dusty, neglected camera you pick up now has been sitting around for a while unless you get it from a shop—and that can lead to problems.

The first thing to check is the battery compartment. Storing a camera with a battery inside often leads to corrosion, which can literally eat away at the inside of the camera as the acid liberates itself from the cell. If you open the battery door and find green gunk, it’s definitely a warning sign, but it’s not necessarily a dealbreaker. Check and see if the parts look intact and make sure nothing is falling off. If it’s just a little battery gunk, you can typically clean the majority of it with some rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab.

If you have a chance to test out the camera before you purchase it, bring a spare battery with you to try it out. Many newer cameras won’t work at all without a battery inside, so you can’t test to see if you can trigger the shutter with the button. Camera batteries aren’t necessarily easy to find anymore, so don’t be surprised if you have to order one from Amazon or another camera shop after googling which one you’ll need. Typical batteries include CR123 and CR2 cells.

Make sure to try out all the moving parts, as well. If there are knobs, twist them. If the lens has a ring used for focusing, turn it and make sure it doesn’t groan from internal friction (if a lens is making a sound like Chewbacca, it won’t be fun to shoot). If there’s a film advance lever, make sure you can push it, because they often jam up; if it’s frozen, you won’t be able to advance your film.

One crucial element of your new camera is the light meter that measures the illumination in a scene and tells you which settings to use for your shot. Light meters usually engage when you push the camera’s shutter button (the button you use to take the picture) halfway down. When activated, you’ll typically see an indicator through the eyepiece like a needle that fluctuates or a light that moves around an exposure scale to show you what settings to use. Life will be hard if you try to learn without a working light meter, so make sure it’s operational.

Lastly, check the optics. Use your phone’s flashlight to look through the glass of the lens. If you see little tentacle-like streaks inside—especially around the edges—that’s likely lens fungus, which is extremely difficult to remove and might affect your photos, and not in a good, Instagram-filter way. Some lens glass will also yellow as it ages and, which is similarly hard to treat and can add a tinge to your snaps. (If you’re shooting black-and-white film, however, the yellowing is actually less of an issue, for obvious reasons.)

You also might notice a bunch of dust. While that can be annoying, it’s typically harmless. Film cameras employ a focusing screen, which is a piece of glass underneath the viewfinder. It’s often simple to open and clean out the dots of junk. Little bits of dust inside the lens itself are often inconsequential when it comes to image quality, as long as they’re small.

Get some film

By now, you’ve noticed that pretty much every one-hour photo place on the planet has disappeared, which means you should plan on sending your film away for development unless you want to do it yourself (which is totally fun and you should definitely try it, but the subject of a different article!).

If you want to shoot color, start with Agfa Vista (now discontinued), Kodak Gold, or Fuji Superia. They will set you back less than $4 per roll and give you a semi-grainy, and very film-esque look. Expect to pay roughly $11 to have each roll developed and scanned. No, it’s not cheap, but that’s part of what helps the process feel more precious and fun. Labs like The Find Lab and The Darkroom do an excellent job.

If you want to shoot black-and-white, pick up some Kodak T-Max, Kodak Tri-X, or Ilford HP5 (The new TMAX P3200 film from Kodak is aimed at more advanced users since it requires careful processing, which costs extra if you’re sending it out.) All of those stocks have been around forever and there are lots of guides online to help you develop it on your own. You can also send it away to the labs mentioned above, but expect to pay a little more.

Right now, things are relatively great in the film world, but there’s no telling when the boom will end. Film stocks are still going out of production here and there, but it’s easier to shoot film in 2018 than it was five years ago, and that’s a good thing. Let’s hope it lasts.

Original Article by Stan Horaczek
Popular Science, Feb 25, 2018
See the Article HERE: